PAHADI CUISINE
Pahari commonly refers to the rich and diverse culinary traditions of Himachal Pradesh and neighboring Uttarakhand. But the umbrella term does little justice to the diversity in the food and eating habits of the region: Consider that within Himachal Pradesh, Kangra Valley eats very differently from Spiti Valley or the Kullu Valley; in Uttarakhand, the cuisines of the Garhwal and Kumaon regions are distinct in ways that belie their proximity.
Pahari food is a reflection
of the climate, topography and lifestyle of the region, also a biodiversity hot
spot. The cuisines of Himachal Pradesh beautifully showcase the region’s indigenous
produce, use a host of unusual herbs and warm spices like fenugreek and
coriander, mustard and mustard greens.the most famous dish is the bathue ka
saag (lamb’s quarters), cooked with only turmeric and chilli and served
with rice, and chha meat, mutton cooked in buttermilk with a host of
warm aromatic spices.
Curd and chhaas (buttermilk), in fact, enjoy a
special spot in the region’s culinary fabric: Buttermilk is used extensively,
especially in dishes like madra, dried beans like chickpeas or red kidney
beans, cooked in a spicy buttermilk curry; khoru, a thin spicy curry made
with yogurt or buttermilk; and palda, potatoes simmered in buttermilk
gravy. “During the cold winter months, jimikand, or purple yam, is
cooked with curd, coconut and triphala (a mix of powdered amla, harard and baheda),
and eaten to keep the body warm against the winter chill.
A singular feature of pahari cuisine is its
seasonal diversity. “With every season, there is variation in the menu. For
example, during spring, when flowers like the kachnar and
rhododendron are in bloom, they make their way into various preparations.
During the warm summer months, the cooling triphala is included in
the diet while the monsoon sees the preparation of the delicious, warming surka,
a drink made with takeera (soaked, pounded and dried wheat), almonds
and cardamom.
We have explored and researched the vast repertoire of
Uttarakhandi delicacies in depth, emphasizing the differences between the
state’s two distinct regions, Garhwal and Kumaon. “Green leafy vegetables are
used extensively in Garhwali food, whereas Kumaoni food uses more vegetables
like potatoes and radish. Again, although both regions share their love for dal,
Garhwalis are huge fans of urad dal, while Kumaonis have a soft spot for bhatt,
a locally grown black soy bean, Bhatt ki chudkani, is, in fact, one of Kumaon’s
iconic dishes.
Himachal also smokes meats. Dogri cooks, for example, add
hot coals to a bowl of mustard oil and place the bowl inside the pot containing
the cooked meat to allow the smoke to infuse the spice-laced meat. The flavour
is evocatively described as dhuni.
Discussing about festivities, one cannot but mention dham,
the traditional Himachali wedding feast that usually includes dishes like madra, palda,
a mustard-based raita and dal followed by meethe
chawal, sweetened rice garnished with nuts and raisins, or mithdee, a
sweet dish made with boondi and breadcrumbs. “The food is served in
courses, on pattal or leaf plates, to guests usually seated on the
ground. Uttarakhand’s answer to the Himachali meethe chawal is
perhaps the jhangore ki kheer, a sweet millet pudding packed with dry
fruits. And if that’s not enough, there are gulgule, sweet banana
dumplings; bal mithai, a fudge-like confectionery made with mawa and
covered in tiny sugar balls; and singori, a delicious Kumaoni sweet
prepared with khoya, and served in cones made of maalu leaves.
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